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VECTOR FAQ

Revision 3.11 - March 28, 1996



TABLE OF CONTENTS







DESIGN GOALS




Quoting Air Power:

  • It has to be Accurate. Consistently accurate. Firearms accurate.

  • It has to mimic a Military MP5 style assault rifle.

  • It has to be balanced.

  • It has to break down without any tools for "normal" cleaning.

  • It has to withstand 1800psi and a completely liquid system.




STOCK FEATURES




One of the Vector's greatest strengths is that it is already
'tricked out' right out of the box Here is all you get without
paying the man at the shop a penny more:

  • 4 way valve (full pneumatic recocking)

  • 100 psi regulated action (recocks until tanks is down to < 120 psi)

  • Anti-chop bolt (95% effective against chops)

  • Quick-release barrel


  • Velocity adjustment

  • Ball detent

  • Raised site rail

  • 1/16 of an inch trigger pull

  • Wide trigger


  • Safety

  • Zero problems with liquid

  • Rate of fire outruns a shredder

  • OPEN bolt design



GOOD POINTS





  • Accuracy: best accuracy for any semi - Vectors with stock barrels
    have won the 5-man and 10-man target shoots at all american opens
    (that's four in a row, and counting...)

  • Stability: the gun barely twitches when you pull the trigger


  • Eats liquid or gas CO2, and nitrogen (nitro requires a regulator,
    of course)

  • Trigger pull is 1/16", (really!) and SNAPS when you pull (no grind)

  • Rate of fire is amazing: it will outrun any finger, and any hopper.

  • 4-way prevents "short stroking" (gun both fires AND recocks when
    trigger is pulled; no waiting for trigger to be released)

  • Anti-pinch is about 95% effective in preventing ball-chops

  • Reliability: it cocks itself, (no bolt pin to pull) and since it
    uses 100psi regulated action, will recock even in the coldest weather
    (although 10degF froze the tank rather quickly...)


  • Precision construction -- it's hard to find the seams!

  • The barrel releases at the press of a button, which completely
    exposes the bolt for cleaning

  • The bolt and valve can both be removed without tools for
    easy cleaning

  • Stock barrel is very well polished, and quite accurate

  • Unique bolt construction forms a vacuum when fired, sucks the next
    ball into the chamber

  • Very short -- most of the action and pneumatics are below the
    barrel, rather than behind it, which makes for a fairly small gun,
    considering its 13" barrel


  • Stock vel adj can get you proper velocity even into cold weather

  • Works with very low pressure. (you CAN play in cold weather! really!)
    AP claims the gun will cycle (although not shoot very far...) at _80_ psi.
    If you're running out of air, your opponants can't tell unless they
    see the balls dropping. (no more "VM-68 crying for death" sounds)

  • Gas efficiency (summer) is estimated at 65 shots/oz.
    giving 455/7 585/9 785/12 1300/20 nice.

  • Shortest trigger pull in the industry (I'm told there is a mod for the
    mag that is shorter, but as I understand, so modified guns have a
    nasty habbit of shooting by themsleves while you're running...)




QUESTIONABLES





  • Great stability does not agitate the hopper; needs a VL-2000 badly

  • If the anti-pinch is tripped, you must reset it (takes only a quarter-
    second, but some people want paint NOW regaurdless if it means chops)
    But, if you really *want* to void the anti-chop, just sharpen the
    curves of the bolt, or put a lighter spring in the built-in regulator.




BAD POINTS





  • Very loud. silencer does not help too much. Air Power says the
    main air charge nears Mach 1 going around the second corner when
    the gun is fired, and creates massive turbulance. Since the gun
    itself is conducting the sound, silencers/barrels can only reduce
    sound about 50-60%

  • Tank must be removed to adjust velocity (a regulator overcomes this)


  • The gun may fire once when you put on the tank, regaurdless of safety
    (this is documented in the manual) Put your hopper on AFTER your CO2,
    and a barrel plug while gassing up is _always_ a good idea, for any gun.
    (placing the safety OFF when gassing up seems to avoid this problem)

  • All-aluminum body seems a target for stripped threads. (caution is given
    several places in the manual against over-tightening) Use common
    sense when assembling

  • The Adapter Body has two very very thin o-rings that seal it in, which
    are very easy to slice when removing to oil. Recommend ordering a few
    spares. You will probably never need to remove the adapter body anyway.

  • High pressure feed line to the regulator has been known to leak on the
    valve side; this is a free repair

  • Almost every pin and screw is untreated steel -- oil them often, or the
    rust monster cometh!

  • Heavy - 3 1/3 lbs without tank or paint


  • Cannot remove barrel release button for cleaning (although you CAN just
    dunk the whole gun in the suds after removing the action) This is
    however, the ONLY item not easily removed, and is not exactly
    what you would call a "critical system" of the gun. ;-)

  • Customer service is not four star. The main complaint is time --
    some Vectors have a month or more of turnaround time. AP is working
    to fix this. (see updates at bottom)



PASSED THE TESTS




These are a few things that AP, myself, or someone else has done to
their Vector, (accidentally or on purpose) and what happened to their
gun: (don't try these unless you own a Vector!)


  • Paint in the airway... so much paint it was oozing out the 4-way's
    vents.

  • = Result: lots of paint in the barrel of course, but still firing away.

  • Finger in the chamber when the gun was fired.

  • = Result: anti-pinch was 'tripped', owner kept his finger

  • Low pressure line hooked to gun instead of high pressure CO2

  • = Result: Vector continued to cycle properly at pressures as low as 80 psi

  • Siphon tank attached

  • = Result: big, big, BIG CO2 cloud, big increase in velocity. Frost was
    noted on the Action/Power Unit, Regulator, and Adapter Body. Vel adjust
    was then adjusted, cut the cloud down to size and returned to 300 fps.
    No problems. Siphon it if you wish, for superior winter performance.


BOLT DESIGNS AND RANGE/ACCURACY




Many people have heard the P.R. about the Vector being very accurate and
long ranged, and assume that it must be a closed-bolt design. (closed-
bolt means that the gun's chamber is closed with the ball loaded _before_
you pull the trigger) The Vector is actually open-bolt. In addition,
the bolt does not even have an o-ring on it to seal the chamber. When
I discussed this with AP, I was told that the Vector's original design
called for a closed-bolt system to help save gas. ('93 Vectors were
total gashogs) AP found that by removing the o-ring, the Vector's
gas efficiency dropped only slightly, but the rate of fire was increased
by at least one shot per second. This was due to the pneumatics not
having to pull the bolt out of the barrel and getting dragged down by
the o-ring's friction with the barrel.

I have heard several people argue that a closed-bolt design introduces
less ball-deformation and turbulance during firing, and that this
deformation and turbulance are responsible for decreased accuracy and
range. No proof of either of these claims has been offered, and I
remain skeptical.


AIR POWER TOYS





  • Bottom line: designed to mimic the Smart Parts style mount for
    compatibility, should now be available

  • Shorter barrel: 8" effective, 5" less than stock. cost $75

  • NRG: Non-Restricted Gravity barrel, feed port is on TOP, comes with
    side mount site rail, rate of fire tested at 8-10 shots per second
    (this is for real) Site rail mounts on barrel, upward at 45 degrees,
    right or left side. (tapped for both) cost $75

  • Thruster: inline regulator/velocity adjuster $125 (includes power stock)

  • Parts kit: Includes at least 1 of every seal, O-ring, and screw
    (see below) cost $35.


  • Power Stock: screws in where your tank goes. Must have a remote
    line with quick disconnect (it comes with male end on a 1' line)
    price: $49

  • Nitro system: I have been told 3rd party that AP now offers a nitro
    system - anyone have info on this?





OTHER AFTERMARKET PRODUCTS





  • J&J: thread your stock barrel and include one of their hardchrome rifled
    barrels, all for $95 (this is reportedly low quality work, and
    is not as accurate as stock barrel)

  • Pro-Team is working on a new receiver portion that will take any
    Illustrator-type threaded barrel; still on the "drawing board" though

  • BoA offers two custom barrels

  • Standard barrel, and "conceiler" barrel that comes with custom 5" silencer


  • Neither has the "NRG" design

  • Options include brass/chrome, color anodizing, muzzle brake

  • Both are the same 15" as the stock Vector barrel

  • Base price is $65, plus extras, and if you get all the goodies, it's
    about $135.

  • Barrels DO NOT include the front mount or the detent; you must remove
    them from your stock barrel and place them on the BoA. (holes and such
    are pre-machined though)

  • Accuracy is reported as equal with stock, but obviously the conceiler
    has its added value if quiet is your thing


  • Feed port is enlarged to better than 2", which may help increase
    feed speed (and get the hopper well out of the way of a nice big site)

  • This barrel does not have quite the "professional" look to it, but
    reportedly delivers the goods.

  • Call BoA at (216) 878-6309 for details.

  • Hardwood Maple grips are being made to order by a private individual.
    (they also include a bottom line bracket) Contact Dave Lavictoire
    at 'dlavicto@chat.carleton.ca' for information.

  • Smart Parts now offers a barrel for the Vector. They do about the same
    thing as J&J does, by taking an existing barrel, chopping off the end,
    and putting their own type of barrel on the end. This barrel is
    reported to quiet the Vector about 25% and to be even more accurate than
    the stock barrel.


  • Pro-Team *used* to make barrels for the '93 Vectors, but have not
    continued to offer them for the '94 version, due to low demand.



AFTERMARKET REGULATORS




Adding an external regulator can make velocity adjustment easier,
and also improve velocity stability. Vectors require far less
pressure than most markers though - 850psi is where you'd set
one for a 'mag, bug the Vector is looking for around 450psi.
Too much input pressure in cold weather may slip off a low
pressure hose.



PAINT




The Vectors were designed and tested using ProBall, but don't have
any "incompatibilities" with any brand of paint. All Vectors
come with a ball detent built into the barrel. Replacement barrels
may not come with ball detents - check when ordering.


ANTI-PINCH FEATURE EXPLAINED




Many people want to know more about the anti-pinch feature, so here is
how it works: You're firing away and a deformed ball drops down your
elbown and halfway into the chamber and stops. When you pull the
trigger, the bolt moves forward, powered by a 100psi burst from the
4-way. About 95% of the time the bolt will stop before breaking/
slicing the ball. The gun will not fire, and will appear to be
completely out of CO2.

With your index finger, just flip on the safety (a lever right above
and forward of the trigger, on the side of the gun) and you'll hear a
slight whoosh as the gun recocks and resets. Flip down the safety
(off) and fire again. When the gun recocked, the ball should have
fallen into the chamber. This resetting procedure takes about 1/2
second if you know what you are doing.

I have experienced some gator balls so badly deformed that they
actually got jammed in the port, and kept tripping the anti-
pinch. To clear this nasty jam, you've got to pull off the
hopper and push the ball into the chamber.

On an average day with average paint and high rate of fire, expect to
reset your Vector 4-5 times. Don't think of it as four resets;
think of it as zero ball chops, zero hooks/slices.

Oddly enough, this was not a design goal, but rather came as a
side effect when they dropped the regulated pressure to 100psi.
AP has never marketed the 'anti-pinch' feature, even though it
has really gotten around. Some Autococker mods lower the
regulated pressure down near that of the Vector, and with the
proper bolt, they too can have this anti-pinch feature.


VELOCITY ADJUSTMENT




The Vector limits its velocity by varying the distance the cup seal can
move from the valve seat, which effects how long the valve stays open.
Adustment is done by removing the tank, (bummer) and turning a set screw
in the adapter body with an allen wrench. The manual states you have
6-8 turns to work with. Mine has four and a half.

To set the Vector at maximum velocity it is not necessary to back the screw all
the way out. Back the screw out until it is flush with the adapter body. Now
slowly twist it in until you feel a slight resistance. (it will be several
turns) When you feel this resistance, you have just hit the piston. Turning
further will push the piston forward and compress the valve spring. When the
valve spring is fully compressed, the pin can barely move, and the cup
will not put any air in your barrel. This adjustment in no way affects
the air going to the regulator and its 100 psi for the action.

This in effect changes the spring size in your valve. Note when installing
a regulator, you need to fully open the valve system. Remove the set
screw and the piston, and put them in a bag with some oil in case you
need them later. Failure to remove these items will result in a
maximum velocity below 300 fps. This procedure is not covered in your
regulator booklet/manual unless you bought a Thruster. It may also be
necessary to replace the main spring, which is included with both
the Thruster and the parts kit. Vectors sold as "Thruster-Ready" have
already had the piston and set screw removed. Make sure you get them
with the gun though, or you'll have a "Thruster ONLY gun."


THRUSTER




All Thrusters are shipped complete with a manual and a special
valve spring. If you did not get a manual and spring, AP will send
you replacements free of charge.

If you cannot get the velocity set to 300 fps, check:
(a) Piston or adjustment screw not removed from valve
(b) Valve spring not changed
(c) Main spring not changed
(d) Incorrect internal assembly of Thruster. Internal washers
should alternate like ()()(), not like ((((((, with the flat
washer nearest the outside.
(e) Adjustment nut tightened too far, washer(s) may be damaged
(full range of adjustment may be as little as one complete turn)

Velocity range is reported to be 0-320 fps. Adjustment of springs
may be necessary to get higher velocity. (lighter valve spring)

In case you bought someone else's regulator instead of a Thruster,

Thruster Manual Instructions



Remove the main spring from your Vector; refer to the General
Maintenance and Cleaning Disassembly section of you owners manual,
replace with the Thruster main spring.

Step 1: Unscrew the seat from the adapter body. Warning: do not scar
adapter body. Scratches can cause irreparable damage. Always
hold seat with a tool, not the adapter body to prevent damage.
Step 2: Remove the shaft form seat.
Step 3: Remove the spring from adapter body.

Step 4: Remove the velocity piston.
Step 5: Remove adjuster screw. The piston, adjuster screw, and return
spring can be stored for future use should you desire to shoot
the Vector on siphon without the Thruster.
Step 6: Install the Thruster valve shaft return spring.
Step 7: Install valve shaft into seat.
Step 8: Lubricate o-rings and interior of adapter body. Screw valve
seat into adapter body.
NOTE: be carful not to slice o-rings when assembling.
Step 9: Inspect o-rings for damage. Adapter body is now ready for
insertion into Vector.


BARRELS




The stock barrel for the Vector is reported to be the most accurate
produced so far. BoA makes a ported barrel that has about equal
accuracy, with a good silencing action. J&J makes a lower quality
barrel. Stock barrel's rate of fire is 7-8 shots per second. This barrel
has neither ports nor a brake; just a wildly polished tube.

The NRG barrel has the port moved to the top for increased rate of
feed. This required the raised site rail to be removed and replaced
with a side-mount scope rail. Rate of fire is tested at 8-10 shots
per second, depending on whose finger is on the trigger. Better
get a Shredder, too. The NRG barrel is tapped and the site rail
actually moved ONTO the barrel itself at about 45 degrees from
vertical. You pick the side.

AP also offers a shorter barrel, which lowers the effective length
from 13" to 8", and reduces the overhang of the barrel from 6" to 1".
Reduced accuracy is expected, but not confirmed. It is neither
ported nor braked. All AP barrels (regular, NRG, short) cost $75.


SPARE PARTS




This is the stated price for all parts shown in the breakdown in the manual.

Barrel (any) $ 75 Site Base $ 20 HP Line $ 25
Barrel Mount $ 45 Adapter Pin $ 4 HP Line Cover $ 20
Drive Pin $ 4 Bolt Head Slider $ 20 Action Power Unit $200
Hammer $ 25 Receiver ** CALL Valve Seat ** $ 30
Valve Shaft $ 20 Return Spring $ 2 Velocity Piston $ 5
Adapter Body ** $ 40 4-Way Valve $100 Valve Arm ** $ 20
Trigger Sear $ 20 Trigger Assembly $ 30 Side Cover ** $ 30
ForeGrip $ 27 Pistol Grip $ 25 Parts Kit $ 40


Notes:

  • The "Return Spring" is the valve spring

  • Valve Seat must be matched to Adapter Body

  • Side Cover must be matched to Receiver

  • Valve arm must be matched to rest of action

  • Action Power Unit includes the regulator, ram, main spring, and hammer


  • Prices rounded up to nearest dollar

  • Total cost (without receiver) is $827, spare parts are marked up about
    50% from total cost of gun (reciever not included in total)

  • Parts are sometimes cheaper than listed when you actually order them





PARTS KIT




These items are included in the parts kit, $35 + $10 ship from AP:

O-rings (black rubber) screws
----------------------- --------------------------------------------
1: 6.5 x 2 OD x width 1: 2.5 x 3.0 coarse thread length x width
2: 7.5 x 2 (in mm) 4: 4.5 x 3.0 course (in mm)
1: 8.0 x 2 (+/- .3mm) 2: 6.0 x 3.5 fine (+/- .5mm)
2: 11.5 x 2 2: 9.0 x 3.5 fine
2: 18.0 x 2 2: 15.5 x 3.5 fine
1: 20.0 x 1 <-- adapter body 2: 19.0 x 3.0 coarse
1: 24.0 x 2

springs wrenches washer (firing)
----------------------------- --------------------- ------------------
1: 15 x 5.5 x 0.8 (height x 1: 1.5 short (in mm) 1: 13 x 8 x 1.25
1: 19 x 8.7 x 1.0 turns x 1: 2.0 long (OD x ID x width)
1: 45 x 11.0 x 1.4 wire OD 1: 2.5 long (in mm)
1: 52 x 10.7 x 1.2 in mm) 1: 3.0 short (clear teflon?)

All this comes in a very nice yellow parts case, with pleanty of room for
any other tools or extras you might want to throw in. I suggest requesting
several additional adapter body o-rings with your kit.

Notably Missing:

  • Detent spring (although you have a detent screw...)

  • 1st or 2nd trigger spring (watch the little one when assembling/
    disassembling)

  • Barrel release spring

  • Cup seal


AP: "Only items prone to breakage or loss are included in the parts kit."


COMMON PROBLEMS AND ANSWERS





  • Trigger pulls but gun doesnt fire:
    a) Reset safety
    b) Check sear spring


  • Air leaks near where adapter body meets block
    a) Bad adapter body O-ring


  • Adapter body O-rings getting chopped frequently
    a) Oil them before inserting adapter body
    b) Allow the gun to "cool down" for about 15 minutes before
    removing the adapter body (to let the o-rings "relax")
    c) Why are you removing the adapter body?


  • Air leaks from right of "Vector" nameplate
    a) High pressure line o-ring not seated properly
    b) HP line's seal with its plate is bad - free
    repair, but superglue or (preferrably) rubber cement works.
    (just make sure the line is positioned correctly before gluing)


  • Air leaks out the barrel
    a) Bad cup seal
    b) Dirt on cup seal - clean and oil lightly
    c) Cup seal not seated properly - fire several shots


  • Low accuracy, hooking and slicing
    a) Check barrel for paint
    b) Check and clean paint from bolt
    c) Check hopper for broken balls, dump, clean, and reload if necessary


  • Low velocity after installing an inline regulator
    a) Remove piston and set screw (see Thruster above)


  • Barrel seems to wobble a bit (rotate, not shift side to side)
    a) Barrel is designed to float. This is not a problem.


  • Air leaks from/near where high pressure line and regulator meet
    a) O-rings in regulator dry - pull the HP line, oil, and re-attach
    b) O-ring inside regulator dry/bad. Remove regulator, unscrew
    aluminum fitting, check o-ring at end of fitting. Also oil
    the series of smaller o-rings and washers inside.

    c) Excessive oil on o-rings on inlet. You have to keep them
    oiled, but too much oil will make it leak. There should be
    noticable friction when you slide the regulator onto the
    HP line, and you should be able to feel when each of the two
    o-rings is met by the line.


  • Small air leak comming from 4-way, where green body meets aluminum
    block
    a) 4-way is designed to vent a tad while gassed up, this is normal


  • Vector fires but bolt does not return (open) or opens slowly;
    4-way may hiss excessively
    a) 4-way "moved". Loosen both bolts holding 4-way, hold 4-way
    toward the trigger, and re-tighten screws. Use a
    large mount of force when holding the 4-way against the trigger
    assembly, and tighten both screws VERY tight. They are tapped
    into almost one inch of aluminum for this very reason. If the
    4-way is a PAPER'S WIDTH from its correct place, the above
    problem will result.


  • Vector leaks air down the barrel and not running remote; if not
    running siphon, pointing Vector upward and firing stops the leak
    a) The cup seal is getting old. Liquid in the system will
    sneak around a worn cup seal. Cup seals should be replaced
    every 1-2 years.


  • Drop in velocity, inconsistent firing under rapid fire, chambers a
    ball but does not fire it) and failure to fire at all. (progressive)
    a) Hammer is corroded and sticking to ram's forward tube. Remove
    hammer, wrap fine sandpaper around eraser end of pencil and
    sand inside diameter of hammer slightly to remove corrosion.




SUGGESTED IMPROVEMENTS




Some Vector owners would like a modification that would...

  • Make the anti-chop feature able to be shut off if wanted

  • If you don't like it... sharpen the edges of the bolt!
    (buy a spare; they're cheap and can be changed by hand)


  • Make the trigger flip the safety instead of firing if it's tripped

  • AP, "this cannot be done"


  • Make the safety on the other side for 'lefties'

  • AP, "not cost-effective, not enough lefties"


  • Make an auto-response/double-trouble trigger

  • AP has no plans to make one


  • Offer a lightened/milled out block (possibly top on the "wish list")

  • AP claims most of the weight is in the action, and does not plan to
    offer this


  • Make teflon o-rings for the valve body

  • AP is the ONLY source of the regular rubber o-rings, but is considering
    making a composition change. Until then, users are advised to remove
    the adapter body only when necessary.


  • *** Ideas below have been done by individuals, with positive results ***

  • Mill out the adapter body more and use a larger, sturdier, more easily
    obtainable pair of o-rings

  • AP has no plans to do this

  • One owner (with great trust in his machinist) had his adapter body
    lathed a bit to make room for larger teflon o-rings, and reports
    great success. I would expect the valve body's maximum pressure
    rating to have been lowered below the 1800psi set by AP, which may
    not be wise. Since the pin holds the back end in, no injuries would
    result, but it might still ruin your hot summer day.


  • Replace the fragile adapter body o-rings with common 18 x 1 (mm)
    o-rings. One Vector owner reports great success with these commonly
    available o-rings, but says you'll have to stretch them a bit...


  • Mill out the opening around the safety, to make resetting the
    anti-pinch faster/easier

  • The safety has a spring that is held in by a set screw, blocked by
    the 4-way. It can be accessed there, and trimmed or adjusted to
    change the "stiffness" of the safety. See "common problems" for
    information on re-installing the 4-way.


  • Round out the catch on the trigger arm to make the trigger pull
    smooth instead of snappy (but still keep its 1/16" pull)

  • NOTE: '93 Vectors had a tendency to wear down the trigger arm and
    make this happen for awhile (until at last it wore too much)



MAINTENANCE




Here are the things I do when returning from the field:

  • Remove and clean barrel, bolt, and bolt pin

  • Dab the bottom of the bolt slider with a little white lithium
    grease (great stuff!) Don't use too much or you'll hurt your velocity


  • Put it all back in

  • Wipe off any paint on the outside

  • Put a drop of oil on all exposed screws


  • "Twice yearly" maintenance:



  • Remove, check, and oil all three (2 sm, 1 lg) o-rings inside
    regulator's aluminum fitting


  • Oil all trigger parts

  • Remove action/power unit. Clean and oil. NO grease. Thoroughly clean out
    hammer where ram's tube goes in.

  • Remove adapter body and open valve. Check/oil cup seal and
    both o-rings. Oil piston (if still there, removed if you have
    a regulator)

  • NOTE: have a pair of AB o-rings on hand, replace 'em
  • Check all low pressure hoses, make sure they have not slipped
    off a bit

  • Tighten pommel (grip) screws


The 4-way could probably use some lubrication, but it looks sealed
fairly well, and its price tag has (so far) kept my screwdriver
off it. Remember, the 4-way is *designed* to hiss just a tad while
powered up, so don't worry. If it hisses too much for your taste,
it may be just a hair off it's mark; try loosening it and re-placing
it. (see above about the 4-way "moving")

You may want to remove the adapter body (valve) well-after using the
Vector. If you don't give it a good 15 minutes of "cool down" time
after removing the CA, you increase the risk of damaging the adapter body
o-ring on removal of the adapter body. When removing, twist a lot, pull
a little, and oil well before re-insterting.


BEHIND THE SCENES




Things start with the Vector cocked:

  • Hammer is locked onto ram by hammer sear, power spring compressed

  • Hammer/ram are back (next to valve)

  • Bolt is open (above ram)

  • Trigger sear is holding valve arm

  • Valve arm is holding 4-way closed


Here is what happens when you pull the trigger:

  • Trigger is pulled

  • Trigger arm presses past trigger sear

  • Trigger sear pivots, releases valve arm (safety holds valve arm if on)


  • Valve arm pivots, 4-way opens

  • 4-way stops pushing on ram, now pulls ram, hammer, and bolt forward
    (this is where the anti-pinch stops the cycle)

  • Bolt pushes ball into barrel

  • Hammer sear reaches sear roller

  • At the same time:

  • Sear roller pivots hammer sear

    AND ram pivots valve arm

  • Hammer sear releases hammer from ram
    AND valve arm closes 4-way

  • Main spring pushes hammer back
    AND trigger sear catches valve arm

  • Hammer hits valve


  • Very short, high volume air charge released from valve, travels up
    power tube and fires the ball

  • Ram compresses main spring and catches on hammer sear
    (Vector has cycled completely)

  • User releases trigger

  • Trigger arm slides back over trigger sear


Vector is now recocked and ready to fire again

If a ball stops the bolt from moving forward, the action stops. The
4-way is still open, therefore the Action Power Unit is still pulling
the ram, bolt, and hammer forward. Leaving the Vector in this state
for long could eventually pinch the ball in half. (and fire the gun)
Flipping the safety pivots the sear, (normally done by the ram just
as the hammer strikes the valve and fires the gun)
and causes the 4-way to close and the trigger sear to catch it.
When the 4-way closes, the ram just goes back to the valve along with
the hammer, and opens the bolt, and the ball should then drop into
the chamber. Don't forget to flip the safety off. In addition to
chopping the ball in time, the slider that the bolt is on is being
stressed quite a lot, and could eventually fail at the pin. This may
be a 'weak spot' in the design - bolt sliders typically look a bit
curved/bent after a month or so of use. (although they are confined in
a groove, which limits how much they may bend)

If the trigger is pulled with the safety on, the valve arm will not
pivot, and the gun will remain in its cocked state. There is very
little difference in the "feel" of the trigger pull of a Vector
on safety or not.

One of the reasons for the high rate of fire is that the gun does not
have to wait for the user to release the trigger to complete recocking.
The Vector relies on its own internal timing to complete the firing
cycle as fast as possible. No short stroking.

If the user pulls the trigger faster than the Vector cycles, (!)
the Vector will cycle normally except for the hammer, which
will not release from the ram, and will not fire the air charge.
Depending on how early the trigger was pulled, either it will just cycle,
trip the anti-pinch, or a second ball will be chambered. (the last
being the least-likely)

It is quite possible to pull the trigger faster than the BALLS can fall
into the chamber. (NRG barrels make this a lot more difficult to do)
If you do pull faster than they fall, you'll just trip the anti-pinch
more than usual.

Physical Specs:



Weight: 3 1/3 lbs
Length: 18 1/4" (15" w/o barrel)
Height: 8"
Width: 2 1/2"
Color: jet/matte black

Barrel:
Length, total 15 1/2" \_this is for the "long" (standard) barrel
Length, effective 13" /
VERY well honed, no coating (just aluminum)
Not rifled
Not braked
Not ported

Construction



Plastic: handgrip, foregrip

Anodized aluminum: barrel, body, sight rail, CA adapter, cover plates,
trigger, power tube, body, valve body

Untreated aluminum: hammer (with steel striker imbedded)

Steel: action, pins/screws, valve mech, hammer striker, sear

Heat-treated TOOL steel: all internal trigger parts

(Apparently they aren't "tough as nails" -- they're tough as HAMMERS)


NEW from Air Power




On about September 1, 1995, AP will be shipping Vectors complete with
a minimal parts kit and a video!

Also, AP has responded to the problems of customer service, and is
in the process of re-vamping their computer tracking system,
installing a 1-800 customer service line, and....

LIFETIME WARRENTY on parts and servce! yea!

AP is also now "factory direct". i.e. order your Vector, parts,
or goodies directly from Air Power if you wish.


WHY TO BUY...




Another semi over a Vector:

  • Quieter

  • Lighter

  • Smaller

  • More aftermarket stuff available


  • Balances better with a bottom line

  • Can turn off the ball feed

  • Costs $150-350 less (without mods and toys!)

  • Don't play in weather below 60 degrees


A Vector over another semi:

  • No short-stroking

  • No freeze-ups (never 'goes liquid')

  • Stock barrel is already extremely accurate

  • No foamies!

  • No need for power-feed


  • Easier cleaning

  • Balance is perfect with a '20 on the back

  • No breakdowns

  • No shoot-downs

  • Still works in November, December, and January

  • No chops


  • No high pressure seals (except the cup seal of course)

  • Cycles faster than any loader currently available can drop balls

  • Has no need for expansion chambers

  • Can run siphon for exceptional velocity stability in all seasons




THE BIG PICTURE




Out of the box it's big, heavy, fast, loud, accurate, reliable, and complete.

For the best info, call Nick Lotuaco, president of Air Power. Ask for him
at Air Power @ (804) 486-8114. (it's still a 'small business', but it's
nice to be able to talk to the big guy when you need answers)

You can also contact Air Power here on the internet:
AirPower@infi.Net (I have not had great success getting replies here)

Please let me know if I've missed anything here - I'm always trying to
improve and keep this FAQ current!

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